First Day in Kutch

This morning I got up to a different India. Overnight, the train rolled into Kutch and I am looking at a very arid, nearly desert like scenery. I initially stayed in my cot for a while, listening to the sounds of the awaking train coach.

As we rolled into Bhuj, I noticed the lack of trash and pushy people. A cow with HUGE horns gently strolled by on the platform. I would soon see how many cows are just roaming freely around the towns and how traffice has learned to just swerve around them. We were picked up by Kishore, the fabric producer with whom we are meeting this week. He asked us if we would like to freshen up a little first (was it that evident?) to which we gladly agreed. We drove nearly an hour through the most fantastic landscape. Semi-arid sceneries and desert like towns passed by us and I greatly enjoyed the break from the slums in Bombay. Kishore explained that the whole area (Panjub) had been struck by a significant earthquake in 2001 which devastated just about everything.

After nearly an hour we arrived in Mandvit and he took us to the guest house. He explained that we were welcome to stay there but if we did not feel comfortable, he could take us to a hotel, especially because he does not have A/C (it was currently 42C). We entered a little bungalow that could have been taken out of a Hollywood set.

Our beds had net covering and the fans kept the room fairly cool. The door to the yard was made of wooden laths and opened up to a spectacular garden. I know that there will be plenty of bugs and it is most certainly not cool, but we quickly decided that we would gladly stay here.

We were treated to morning Chai and sat outside at a large wooden table. The exhausting train ride hit us and we went back to shower and rest for a few moments. Then we headed out and met with the first group of fabric producers. We witnessed the fantastic batik works and in the process received more answers to some questions we had from visit last week to the producer in Bombay. Even though I was still full from the culinary feast the night before, we were treated to another Indian delightful lunch and then rested until 3. It is simply too hot to do anything.

That afternoon, we visited two more production and outlet areas. I am still amazed at the way you need to patiently wait for the gold nuggets of information. We would discuss all kinds of other things and once in a while I could throw a question in that related to our mission.

I start wondering about the feasibility and need for the consistent dye results. It is kind of asking a Rembrandt or Van Gogh to be perfectly duplicated each time without turning it into a screen printed poster.

After a long hot day, Kishore took us to Mandvit town and drove past the harbor and shipyard. In Mandvit they build yachts that are shipped to Dubai for the final part before being sold as luxury yachts. I have seen so many things made or built in areas you wouldn't set your feet, but are unwittingly sold as and considered luxury items.

Anyway, we stopped at a little street vendor to get one of the delicacies Komal also had recommended: Dabeli. Similar to Bombay Burger, it was something based on potatoes mashed with oil and on a bun, but this version was sweet, with peanuts and raisins. So, so, so delicious!!

Afterwards, we swung by the beach and as I walked in the warm Arabian Sea, I felt all the dirt and stress from Bombay wash away.